A Night At The Opry
I’m from rural West Georgia. It’s there; it exists. If you go outside of I285, past Thornton Road, past “the suburbs”, past Douglasville for another 45 minutes- almost to the Alabama border- approximately at the line where people start to wave at you when you drive by, it’s right there.
There are some things I love about the south. I love the food, the warmness of people, how everything is familiar, how the trees and grass are super green in the summer. I love the slowness, the time and space to watch a cloud pass all the way across the big blue sky. I love the south. I truly love the south.
I also hate the south. I hate the arrogance, the small town bickering, the constant question “what would the neighbors think?”, the bad education, the popularity of Fox News, the “fuck you” pick up trucks, the tendency for people to think “things cain’t get much worse off.” I hate the south. I truly hate the south.
It is what my great great great grandfathers and grandmothers left for me in their will. They left me a bad stomach, a big nose, decent vocal chords and a plot of dirt. I carry them inside of me like a blueprint- like a foregone conclusion. There’s even a road that cuts through a trailer park somewhere near where I grew up that my grand pa paid to be named “Tyler Lane” (in honor of my birth). The first song I remember learning was “Honky Tonk Man” by Dwight Yoakam. My dad was the minister of music at my country Methodist church. I know the cemetery where I will be buried- right next to the patch of woods where my second cousin was killed by her boyfriend for getting pregnant- near the jail I spent a night in for breaking into the public pool.
When I go home now and see the Glenn Beck Show saved on my parent’s DVR or I run into an old classmate who is selling insurance, I’m reminded that this was my course. The fate that awaited my grandfather after the military, the fate that awaited my dad after getting cut from his New York acting school, the Christ Haunted South of hard work, Sunday lunch, and hard deaths is my fate. It’s what the Oracle told me as a child. It’s the warning I see on every back street and on the tongue of every small town preacher in my home town. “This is where you belong” is the word from Delphi.
I am Oedipus. I ran from the ghost to live in the underground dives of Paris. I have a subscription to the New Yorker. I graduated college with a degree in Philosophy. I love the European Novel. I love Dvořák, Mahler, Beethoven and Liszt. I’m a Humanist. I get my news from the BBC, my beer from Belgium, and religious instruction from 4th Century Greece- and despite this heresy, this intentional avoidance of The Ghost, I am my father’s son.
I went home last weekend to help my grandfather cut grass and to hang out with my parents. Once a month there’s a sort of variety show about 20 minutes outside of Carrollton at the Lowell Opry House- which is a beautiful converted airplane hanger in the middle of nowhere. I’ve never been, though I’m sure my dad has invited me to every single one.
The format is like this: there are two sets, both are opened by an original act. The main feature is a band that plays mostly old country songs and members of the audience who can sing those songs get on stage and sing with the band. I knew about 2/3 of the songs (i am my father’s son), and they were all executed beautifully. The pedal steel player is about 80 and has played for every decent country band between 1960-1985. 98% of his licks are perfect but the other 2% are so incredibly off it’s almost a masterpiece. The keyboard player is blind and makes the joke “it’s nice to see all of y’all here tonight.” My mom was asking the band leader why he (the piano player) never brought his girlfriend around and the band leader responded, “well Deborah, she’s just a damn whore.”
The median age of the crowd is probably 50, but the music is so good. It’s exactly just so. It’s the predictable jokes, the showmanship of someone who has seen a life time of honkey tonks. There’s no awareness, no pretensions, no winks and nods. It’s not like Southern Comfort (a trucker bar just outside of Atlanta) that’s becoming a new hip place to hang out. It’s not hip. I don’t even think it knows what that word means. It’s families and hard working men and women with no need to qualify their life or their music. They’ve never listened to anything besides Country radio, but they don’t self-identify with it either, because in rural West Georgia, it’s not a conscious choice. It just is. Anyway, they were gracious enough to let me play four songs and were so kind afterwards. “It’s not country, but it’s not bad.” One of the singers and I were talking outside. He asked if my friends would make fun of the event if they came. My response was “No, because it’s good.” While this is probably at least half true, I really wonder what my friends would think. I wonder about my generation’s (and my own) fascination with cheese, with kitch, with irony, with authenticity. I wonder about its value.
I forget sometimes in the coffee shops and galleries and bars in Atlanta that the Deep South- the scary south- the “rural” south is my inheritance. I spent 18 solid years being unable to abstract myself from where I grew up. When I was in Paris, I thought about the Deep South in the same way an anthropologist would think about a tribe in Africa. One night after playing a show at the Troubadour in London, a British fellow came up to me and said “I like your songs- I had no idea that was what music sounded like in the American South.” I thought the comment was funny because I was listening to so much David Gray and Damien Rice at the time and the music I was making then was completely non-descript of time or place. It made me realize how much I wanted to be from the south, how much I wanted to own the rich traditions and melodies. That night in London was a turning point. Last weekend in Carroll County was a turning point. I don’t have to self-identify with the south, but I can be a rightful participant in the grand tradition of music and art that’s still more or less unbroken.
I am my father’s son. This curse is also a sort of cure. I won’t be voting for Sarah Palin in ‘12, nor will I trade my hatchback for a pick-up truck any time soon, but I will dust off some Dwight Yoakam and some Conway Twitty. I’ll make a country/blues record. I’ll hold my tongue when the old folks start talking about the rapture. I’ll remember that having all the answers doesn’t mean quite so much as being a good person and loving people more than yourself. These are the things I’ll teach my children, and I’ll take them to the country to visit their grandparents who will also teach them these things, because that’s how families work in the south-an entire history of foregone conclusions. I am my father’s son.








